Friday, July 22, 2011

Restaurant Visit - The Wine Bar

For those not familiar, Summerlicious is annual Prix Fixe Food Festival in Toronto.  In the dead of the Toronto winter, we also have Winterlicious.  150 restaurants of all sorts, sizes and varieties join up to offer set dining menus as set affordable prices (hence prix fixe).  Meals must be a minimum of 3 courses and lunch has to be $15, $20 or $25 and dinners $25, $35 or $45.  The idea of course is to try to get people to go out for dinner and to try restaurants they never would have before or thought were too prohibitively expensive.

Honestly, you are either a fan of Summerlicious or you are not – there are as many “neigh” sayers about it as there are supporters.  There is an increasing level of bureaucracy in applying to participate in the program by the City of Toronto – in addition to the actual application process, the meals have to meet certain price to cost ratios to show value, menus must be submitted for consideration 6 months in advance, and it goes on and on. Leave it to the City of Toronto to red-tape a great idea to death (dare I mention food carts!)

As a diner, I think introducing the price to cost ratio is a good thing.  I don’t know how many times I went to a restaurant for a Summerlicious lunch, and the appetizer was some mesculum greens with a few tomatoes with a vinaigrette, boring salmon with a few vegetables, and then some pudding.  And they’d charge $20. 

I usually try to hit at least 2 or 3 restaurants in each festival.  Bymark is always an outstanding choice and the value of their lunch menu is staggering.  And unlike many other venues who come up with price-conscious items to offer clients, Bymark generally serves off its regular menu.  At $25 what you are paying for is your main, and they are more or less covering the appetizer and dessert.  Don't get me started about their tower of Tuna Tartar or I'll end upon a very long tangent.  I’ll come back to Bymark in the Winter, but I wanted to try a few different places this Summer.


The Wine Bar ($15 Lunch)                                 
9 Church Street


I have long been a fan of The Wine Bar since it first opened years ago as JK Wine Bar (Jamie Kennedy has moved on to other ventures in and around the City.)  Besides the fact that you can no longer see Jamie behind the stoves of the completely open kitchen and Chef’s bar, not much has changed – and good thing too because this restaurant has it right in my books.  Great wine list, plenty of offerings by the glass and generally great service.

I really enjoy the small plates/sharing thing and I have never been here where everyone orders “their own” dish and doesn’t share.  This is the first time I have hit The Wine Bar for lunch and the first time for Summerlicious.  I applaud them for trying to keep the meal on the low-end of the Summerlicious lunch price range, but I really wished they’d charged a little bit more and made the “main” a little bit larger.  Maybe the expectation is that you'd order a few extra dishes to begin with.

As usual, you HAVE to order the poutine here.  It is always a higher end play on the Quebecois dish of fries with gravy and cheese curds, but their gravy is always to die for and the fries always perfectly cooked.  I should have listened to myself and ordered the Mini Burger Poutine, which had an astonishing beef gravy topped with smoked cheddar.  So good!!!  Instead I went for the Local Broccoli Salad, which was nice with raisins, toasted almonds and honey balsamic vinaigrette, but I was salivating over Deanne’s poutine.

I went for the Smoked Salmon open faced Sandwich with dill cream cheese and a fresh fennel & sweet onion slaw.  Truly a wonderful lunch dish.  The other ladies enjoyed Grilled Quail, served with some greens, roasted hazelnuts and pickled corn & mustard vinaigrette.  More than half a quail per person would have been a better serving.

Dessert was good with Sour Cherry Bread Pudding with Rum & Butter Sauce (a little light on the cherries though) and the Chocolate Tart with Chantilly Cream was enough to put you in a chocolate coma.

At the end, we were still a bit hungry so we finished up with one of their artisanal cheese platters.  Overall, food was good, if perhaps a little small (what do you want for $15, tho right?), and the service was a bit rushed but it was lunch hour so that is easily forgiven. 

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